Okay,
here we fucking go. Back from my little vacation, back from the other
side of the world. My trip to Japan marks the first time me visiting
Asia (not counting Turkey) since covid. It also marks the first time
I took some real time off since I started freelancing as a teacher.
It was a really cool experience and I got to do it with some of my
favorite people. So without further ado, let’s dive into it…


After
two long-ass flights, I arrived at Narita Airport early afternoon
September 19th. Quickly learning that Japan is still
heavily cash-based, I had to withdraw some money to get a subway
ticket downtown to our accommodation. Now, let me point out, that the
subway system is ran by different companies and their tickets are not
compatible. Which is super weird and sometimes causes real headache.
Anyway, made it to my station and walked to our building to find out
nobody is in. Which was fine; I was really enjoying strolling around,
watching the high-rise buildings, feeling the vibe. It was making me
sentimental as it was by far the closest I had got to Shanghai in
ages. At that point, I had no internet access so I was trying to find
some wi-fi and in the process accidentally ran into my friends who
came from Canada. So the whole adventure could start.

We
spent the first four days in Tokyo. Now, Japan has a reputation of
this super fascinating place with a unique culture, rich history and
tons of things to do. Which is all true but there are also things
that don’t really work very well. For me at least. It kinda feels
everything is bound by some protocols and rules. It’s not really
okay to drink water in public. It’s not really okay to sit down
outside and have a snack. It’s not really okay to do pretty much
anything as it’s considered an “annoying act”. Even though, it
was very hot the whole time, there are pretty much no establishments
with outside seating. Oh, and there are virtually no trash bins.
Which would be okay, if they didn’t sell everything in layers of
plastic. Beverages, snacks, even fucking veggies and fruits. It’s
like everywhere you go, you end up with tons of rubbish but then you
have nowhere to put it. Bins are such a rare occurrence that I ended
up taking pictures every time I saw some. And the fucking food. Japan
might be the least vegan friendly place in Asia I’ve experienced so
far. Sure, there are vegan spots and you can usually get a little
something in a regular restaurant as well. But listen… These tiny
Japanese portions of food don’t really cut it. Shit isn’t really
cheap and when you get like two pieces of mushrooms, little tiny
green leaf and about 30 grams of rice… It’s all cute in the
beginning but after a day or two you are really fucking hungry. You
can get a ramen here and there but I found it extremely difficult to
get a decent portion of food. Ended up eating lots of peanuts and
relying mostly on Indian or Nepalese places. Plus honestly, there
wasn’t a single dish that blew my mind. It’s all kinda mid. But I
understand this might be me. I don’t eat most things and I’m not
the biggest fan of sushi. Ramen is good but I also don’t need one
every day so there you have it.


When it
comes to bars, they often have these tiny little spots (couple of
square meters at most) with capacity of about 5-6 people which
creates a pretty intimate environment. Which would be great if
Japanese were communicative. Which they’re not. So again, a pretty
pricey experience where you basically stare into the staff’s faces
but it really isn’t much fun. Overall, it really feels like a whole
bunch of rules, lotta distance and very little spontaneity. Which
kinda goes in line with things you often read about the country. The
population is aging like crazy, many young people find the idea of
sex disgusting, people are lonely (they actually manufacture robots
so older people have something to hug; which is like the saddest
thing I’ve ever heard), they are not very welcoming to other
cultures so they can’t really solve this by immigration… It’s
very difficult to understand and it seems very complicated.





I don’t
wanna make it sound like I had a bad time tho. It was a great
experience and I’m super happy we got to it. Downtown Tokyo at
night looks like something from a comic book and it is an experience.
There are many really cool things. It just feels that the hype around
Japan doesn’t really reflect the full reality. And my friends who
live there (part of my old Shanghai gang) confirm all of that. Based
on the first impression, if I had to choose between Tokyo and
Shanghai, I’m picking Shanghai any day of the week. Shit feels much
more free over there. How ironic is that.


We kept ourselves busy tho. We went to karaoke, we explored some bars
and cafés, we went to the legendary Shibuya crossroads… One day, I
visited the Tokyo National Museum (epic) and I also reunited with my
Lithuanians which brought back some memories. It’s apparently one
of those friendships where it doesn’t really matter how much time
you spend apart. Whenever you see each other again, it all falls back
in place. So yeah, that felt great. Made me feel old but also
grateful. All the shit we’ve been through, all the memories we
created… I’m not really in touch with most people from back in
the day but shit… We used be amazing together. And it’s cool
revisiting that once in a while. Life’s good. Shout out to the
Shanghainese gang! Much love...
The one
negative thing was illness. Two of our group started feeling unwell
on the second day and they ended up splitting for two nights. And
unfortunately, the rest of us took some damage, too. We never really
had to spend a whole day in bed but for good 3 days, we weren’t
really sure what’s happening and in what condition we would wake up
the following day. But again, nothing serious.
From
Tokyo, we took it to Hakone for a night. It’s a rural area and our
hotel had an onsen in it. It’s this traditional Japanese bath and
even thought they restrict tatted people, I managed to get in. There
weren’t too many guests, there was no staff present in the evening…
So it worked out. Exploring Hakone was fun. Many cable cars over the
mountains and lakes. On the top of of one of the mountains, there is
a sulfur mine. I’ve seen similar places in Indonesia (and even on
Teide in Tenerife) but this one was probably the largest. And it all
smelled of spoiled eggs as expected.


From
Hakone, we went to Kyoto. See, we got this one-week train ticket
which entitles you to use most Japanese trains without limits. And
those Shinkansens are both super reliable and fast. Kyoto was mostly
about temples. We visited Nara where there’s deer casually walking
around everywhere. Apparently, that’s been happening for ages but
it’s a trip seeing animals who are naturally extremely shy being
fed and petted by tourists, chilling in parks and generally not
giving a fuck. My vegan heart wasn’t particularly happy about that.
But yeah, lotta temples and castles, some cool bars (if you ever get
there, check the In The Moon bar – some epic views), really nice
accommodation. We also did an afternoon trip to Osaka. The castle
over there is really nice and so is the surrounding park.




Our
last stop was Hiroshima. I had never thought about what Hiroshima
actually looks like prior to coming there. In my head I had always
associated it with a-bomb, pain, suffering, radiation and apocalypse.
So it was pretty surprising seeing how green the city is. The first
day, we did a trip to one of the surrounding islands, walked around,
took a cable car to the top and then spent the evening downtown in a
park drinking and hanging out. It was our first time doing shit like
that in Japan and it felt refreshing. You see, that park is located
exactly where the bomb was dropped. Now there’s a lot of greenery,
museum and a memorial with a burning flame. And they say they gonna
keep it burning until there are no more nuclear weapons left in the
world. Good luck with that. There’s also a building which is the
only one in the whole area that survived the blast. Only because the
bomb exploded about 500 meters high, almost exactly above it so the
blast went all around but kept this one intact. And it was designed
by a Czech architect. Crazy, right?


We also
visited the museum. And that was heavy. It’s impossible to fully appreciate the scope of damage brought by the attack.
Temperatures of thousands of degrees Celsius, radiation, death,
illnesses, suffering. In the museum they keep it personal, telling
stories of different individuals, giving examples, painting the whole
picture. There’s a lot in it and it’s not an easy content to
digest but it is totally worth it and it really puts some things in
perspective. And it’s crazy we live in the world where thousands of
these weapons have been assembled. It’s enough to destroy the whole
planet countless times over. With people like Trump, Putin or Kim
having access to the red button. Happy days.


We
spent the last two night back in Tokyo. We found this neat capsule
hotel (we stayed in one in Hiroshima, too) with onsen. These capsules
work. I cannot imagine staying in these youth hostels with 30 bunk
beds in one room anymore but the capsules give you enough space and
privacy to have some quality sleep. This hostel also had a nice bar
and it was right by the river… No complaints. The last evening, we
took it to one of the neighborhoods where they sell sex toys, porn
and panties with menstrual blood off vending machines. Because yes…
You can’t really drink water outside without people looking at you
weird but you can apparently buy DVDs of dogs fucking people (no
exaggeration there) in a store with a credit card. The whole
experience was surreal. We also hit some arcades, did some fucked up
pictures in one of these photo booths and went to karaoke once more
to sing some Backstreet Boys, Justin and My Heart Will Go On. Shit
like that is important.

And
that was that. The day after, I was on my way to the Czech Republic.
Arrived two days ago, spent some time with the fam, worked a lot…
Back to reality. I’m super happy I did the trip. Felt good spending
this much time with friends, felt great exploring new country, felt
good taking some time off. Japan is a weird and messed up but it has
a lot to offer. Now I’m back on my workouts, I’m eating a lot
(compensating for the whole trip), I’m decompressing. Hope y’all
good, too. Sending love to everybody out there and shout out to all
my vegans. One!
Highlights:
- Hiroshima.
-
Karaoke.
-
My
people!